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Istanbul

Atatürk Olympic Stadium

Capacity:   75,486 All Seater

The Atatürk was constructed in between 1999 and 2002 as the centre piece of Istanbul’s Olympic games bid for the 2012.  Whilst Istanbul has three big club teams in Besiktas,  Fenerbahçe and Galatasaray, the stadium was constructed as a neutral venue in the hope of being granted some of the biggest games in Europe.  They did not have to wait long as UEFA granted the stadium 5 star status in 2003, and two years later the stadium hosted one of the most memorable Champions League finals of all time as Liverpool over turned a 3-0 Half-Time deficit to beat AC Milan to penalties.  

The stadium is unique in design – two covered side stands of two and three tiers respectively tower above the uncovered end stands.  Despite the stadium having an Athletics track – it hosted a number of top meetings – the sightlines are very good.  The stadium is located in the outlying district of Ikitelli to the west of the city centre.  At night the stadium is lit up like a beacon.

Who plays there?
Apart from the Champions League Final in 2005, the stadium has been used by a number of teams on an ad-hoc basis.  Galatasaray used the stadium in 2003/04 season when their own stadium was being renovated, and the following season little known Sivasspor celebrated their first season in the Turkish Super League with a season at the stadium.

This season Galatasaray have returned to the stadium to host their Champions League although attendances were not too impressive – just 23,000 were in the stadium for the visit of Liverpool in November 2006.  Amazingly, the stadium is rarely used by the national team – instead preferring the intimate atmosphere of some of the club grounds in the city centre.

How to get there
The stadium is located on the European side of Istanbul in the Olympic Park district called Ikitelli.  It is easily accessible from the main roads running between the city centre and the airport.

If the stadium is hosting a big match then free shuttle buses run before the kick off from the airport as well as from Taksim Square in the city centre.  The only other way to reach the stadium is by taxi – the fare from the city centre should not cost more than 50YTL (£20).  Taxi’s wait on the west side of the stadium after the match to ferry you back to the city centre.

Getting a ticket
With very few matches being held at the stadium, and those that do being club sides, it is best to first check with the individual teams on ticket availability.  In 2006/07 when Galatasaray held their Champions League matches here, tickets were available from the Ali Sami Yen Stadi in the city centre.  Depending on the opposition will depend on whether tickets will be available on the day of the game.  In 2006, tickets were available for the PSV Eindhovengame but not for the Liverpool game. 

Ali Sami Yen Stadium

Capacity: 25,500 All Seater


The Ali Sami Yen will always be associated with the awful images of the abuse given to Manchester United fans and players for their matches in the Champions League during the 1990’s when they were “Welcomed to Hell”.  The stadium is actually very basic.  It has two large stands – both with small lower tiers and shallow roofs, with the two ends behind the goals being set back in a curve and open aired.

The view from behind the goals is not good, and facilities are very basic.  The view from the upper tiers of the side stands is much better, although the stadium does lack some atmosphere due to the distance from the pitch. 

However, there is some good news on the horizon for the club as work is due to commence soon on a new 50,000 Arena, inspired by the Amsterdam ArenA  - and should be ready for the start of the 2008/09 season.

Who plays there?
The Ali Sami Yen Stadium is home to Turkey’s most successful club, Galatasaray SK.  Originally formed as a Sporting Club, rather than a football club due to the restriction of the Ottoman Empire in the early part of the 20th century.

The club has actually won 16 Championships in their history – including last season’s under the leadership of Belgian Eric Gerets.  In fact, the club has always had the ability of attracting top European coaches including Faith Terim, George Hagi and of course Graeme Souness.  Their golden period came in the late 1990’s under Terim when the club won four successive titles from 1996, two Turkish cups and in 2000 they won the UEFA Cup by beating Arsenal on penalties in Copenhagen.  

The club has had a number of famous players pull on the Red and Yellow striped shirts in the past few years, including legendary Souness- journey men Dean Saunders and Barry Venison, Turkish legend Hakan Şükür and the Romanian trio of Georgie Hagi, Georgie Popescu and Iolian Filipescu.

How to get there
The stadium is relatively easy to get to, as it enjoys a city centre location.  From Taksim Square catch any bus in the direction of Mecidiyeköy.  The stadium is a 5 minute walk away from the bus station.  Alternatively, use the metro system to the stop at Şişli which is two stops from Taksim.

Getting a ticket
Galatasaray have some of the most fanatical supporters in Europe, and despite the small capacity, sell outs are frequent, especially if the visitors are local.  The club has around 10,000 season ticket holders, leaving around 14,000 seats available to purchase on a game by game basis.  Tickets for the main covered stands start from 140 YTL.  In the past few seasons, due to the poor condition of the stadium and pitch, Champions League games have been placed at the Atatürk Olympic Stadium.

For more details on getting a ticket, check the English language of the official site at http://www.galatasaray.org.

Şükrü Saracoğlu Stadium

Capacity:  52.500 All Seater

There has been a stadium on this site since 1908 when the government built a small stand here for Union Club, a team made up of English students.  The stadium grew over the next few years to be the most important in Istanbul until the Taksim stadium opened in 1923.

In 1929 Fenerbahçe moved in and immediately began the task of renovating the ground – in fact in 1944 the stadium was the largest in Turkey with a capacity of 25,000.  Further expansion to 40,000 took place over the next few decades, although a decision to move to all seater in 1995 reduced this to 25,000.

Funding was secured in 1999 to increase the capacity to over 50,000, as well as renaming the stadium to The Şükrü Saracoğlu Stadium.  In 2002 as part of the failed bid by Greece and Turkey to host Euro 2008, the stadium was granted a 5 star status by UEFA, thus enabling it to host major finals – a feat it will fulfil by hosting the 2009 UEFA Cup Final.

The stadium is very impressive – a two tier bowl of a stadium with yellow and blue seats throughout.  It is a very British style stadium – similar to a bigger version of St Mary’s in Southampton.  Sight lines are excellent, and in keeping with the fanatical support of the Turks, the intimate surroundings make the matchday experience awesome.  The stadium is also the preferred choice for the national team, and all bar one of the qualifying games for the 2006 World Cup were played here, as too was the infamous play off game versus Switzerland where trouble on and off the pitch led to a stadium ban for the country.

Who plays there?
Fenerbahçe, or the Yellow Canaries are today the biggest club in Turkey.  They are managed by Brazilian legend, Zico, who has taken the club to the top of the Super Lig after last seasons disappointing 2nd place.  

The club can trace their history back to 1899 when a team was formed as a sports club – at the time football was banned within the Ottoman Empire.  It was a further 10 years before football was allowed, and the club entered the regional leagues.

In 1959 the first Turkish National League was formed, and the club went on to win this inaugural title, as well as further titles in 1961, 1964, 1965 and 1968.  The club also won a number of Turkish Cups.  In the 1970’s the club finished in the top 2 on all bar one occasion – taking another four titles.

The club has continued its excellent domestic form since – with a total of 16 Titles and 4 Cups to date.  However, despite the recruitment of such world class coaches as Guus Hiddink, Jozef Venglos, Carlos Alberto Parreira and Christoph Daum, European success has been very thin on the ground.  The highlight of 30 years of European football was a 1-0 victory at Old Trafford in 2003 in the Champions League qualifying although a year later the teams met again in the Group Stages with Manchester United running out 6-2 winners.  The Turks did gain some revenge in the return leg with a 3-0 which took them into the UEFA Cup.  This season the priority has to be to retain the title they last won in 2005.

How to get there
The stadium is located in the Asian side of the Bosporus and so a trip on the river is almost a necessity.  Take a boat from landing number 2 at Eminönü to Kadiköy harbour then take Bus 4 to the Dere Agzi bus stop on the canal.  From here the stadium is a short 5 minute walk away.  The nearest railway station is at Söğütlüçeşme train station around a 5 minute walk away from the stadium.

Getting a ticket
Tickets for most games can be purchased via Biletix (http://www.biletix.com) which is a Ticketmaster company from three weeks before the game.  Tickets range in price from 45YTL in the Trubunes, to 350 YTL in the main stand upper tier.  A good seat for the neutral is the Fenerium stand which start from 150YTL.  Tickets can be posted to the UK should time permit – otherwise you will need to pick them up from the ticket office at the stadium – you just need to remember to bring some id with you.

The club averages less than 40,000 – some 10,000 less than capacity.  The derby games against Besiktas and Galatasaray normally attract close to capacity – although tickets can still be purchased in advance using the above method.  On a matchday tickets are sold from kiosks on each corner of the stadium.

Inonu Stadium

Capacity:  32,100 All Seater


Any stadium that has been described by the legendary Pele as the “most beautiful stadium in world” must be worth a visit.  The stadium was designed by Italian architect Paolo Vietti Violi and has retained the feel and features of the city itself.  The stadium is in the heart of the Domlabahçe Palace area of the European side of Istanbul.

It originally opened in 1947 and is named after the second President of Turkey.  The stadium’s unique views come from its location close to the Bosphorus river and the Dolmabahçe Palace – one of Istanbul’s most beautiful buildings.

The stadium certainly has a unique look with three sides covered – two identical side stands that have one staggered tier, and one end stand which dominates the stadium with a roof that sits hit above the rest of the ground.  At the far end (the Bosphorus end) is a smaller open ended stand.  Views from the higher tiers are fantastic – both in terms of the football and the surrounding scenery.  

Who plays there?
Whilst Beşitkaş JK are the oldest sports club in Turkey, dating back to 1903, they have not enjoyed the success of their city rivals Galatasaray and Fenerbahçe – winning 12 titles and 6 Turkish Cups – the last of which was in 2003.

However, the club does have one honour that has never fallen on the other Turkish clubs – namely that in May 1952 the whole of the Turkish national team for a game versus Greece came from the club.  To honour this achievement, the club are allowed to fly the Turkish flag alongside their own, as well as incorporate it onto their own emblem.
 
The team really rose to power in the late 1950’s – winning their first Championship in 1957l and then winning it again twice in the next three years.  In the 1960’s the team won three more championships, although the decade will be remembered for the club actually averaging a new coach every season.  The team then went over 15 years without another title, as their cross city neighbours horded the honours.  They did win a couple more in the late 1980’s including the domestic double in 1990 and again in 1994.

However, the team seem to be cast as perennial bridesmaids, finishing runners up 9 times since the mid 1980’s.  Their European adventures have also been brief.  A run to the quarter finals of the European Cup in 1987 may seem impressive, but they only actually played one tie before that as APOEL of Cyprus refused to play in Turkey.  A 5-0 defeat in the first leg of the quarter final to Dynamo Kiev was not a memorable night for the club.

They did qualify for the group stages of the Champions League in 2003, where they were drawn in a group with Chelsea, Sparta Prague and Lazio.  The club managed a 2-0 win at Stamford Bridge – the last European home defeat suffered by Chelsea, and going into the last game of the group sat in 2nd place.  However, a 2-0 defeat at home to Chelsea, and Sparta’s 1-0 win versus Lazio saw the club pushed into the UEFA Cup, where they lost 5-2 to Valencia.

This season they have played second fiddle to Fenerbahçe for most of the season, although with a few games left and an away trip to the Canaries still to come, hope is still there of a return to title winning form.

How to get there
The stadium is close enough to Taksim Square to be walkable – a 10 minute stroll towards the river along Gümüşsuyu Avenue will see you at the stadium gates.  Alternatively if you need to use public transport then you can get a ferry from the Asian side direct to the landing at Besiktas from Üsküdar and Kadiköy.  A dolmus taxi should cost less than €2 from Taksim.

Getting a ticket
Tickets for most games can be purchased via Biletix (http://www.biletix.com) which is a Ticketmaster company from three weeks before the game.  Tickets range in price from 45YTL in the Old Open Stand, to 350 YTL in the main stand upper tier (Numarali).  A good seat for the neutral is the Kapali stand which start from 150YTL.  Tickets can be posted to the UK should time permit – otherwise you will need to pick them up from the ticket office at the stadium – you just need to remember to bring some id with you.

The club averages less than 27,000 – some 5,000 less than capacity.  The derby games against Fenerbahçe and Galatasaray normally attract close to capacity – although tickets can still be purchased in advance using the above method.  On a matchday tickets are sold from kiosks on each corner of the stadium.  Gates open up to 7 hours before derby matches to allow the fans to come in and set up the stadium.

 

 
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